sorry about the previous message…I left out thr car and model!

if the battery terminal (post) is corroded, the yellow plastic terminal cleaner shown in this article should also have a brush inside the cover for cleaning the post, simply push the cover down over the post and twist it around in both directions several times to really clean up the post, you may have to blow off the powdery corrosion (don’t breath it in!) and repeat — it should eventually appear bright and shiny afterwards. (the smaller brush shown is for cleaning the *inside* of the battery cable connectors, as they are just as likely to acquire corrosion as the battery terminals and should be checked and cleaned if necessary when removed) — odd that this article doesn’t mention this.

if you have no brush suitable for cleaning the battery terminals and cable connectors, a small piece of some very light sandpaper (400-800g) can be used. in an emergency a disposable nail file will also work

you should always keep the top of the battery clean (a small scrub brush and some baking soda in warm water is fine) as a buildup of crud and corrosion can actually form a circuit and actually drain the battery when the engine isn’t running.

at a bare minimum, you should keep an adjustable wrench (and preferably a cheapish 3/8″ handle with sockets, not just pliers) in your car in case you need to change the battery or tighten a hose clamp, etc. — and remember, you may not be capable of repairing a problem with your car, but having a basic tool set will make it easier for a helpful fellow motorist if you end up stuck in traffic, etc.

for those in northern climes, the first cold days after summer often prove to be too much for an aging battery, so if your battery is a few years old, be prepared for it to fail after the first frost..!

also — and this is especially true for those with older cars — always inspect the battery cables where they meet the connector. if the large copper wires that make up the cable are exposed, they can also degrade and should be replaced. if you have recently installed a new battery in an older car, and that battery has failed (and the alternator is known to be operating properly) ALWAYS have new battery cables installed — especially the negative. faulty battery cables are often overlooked (sometimes on purpose) by small-shop mechanics and this can cost you a lot of money, when all you really needed was a new negative battery cable and a battery charge!

using vaseline on the connectors is often mentioned, but usually just creates a mess, i wouldn’t recommend using it — instead, ask your local auto supply store for anti-corrosion rings for the battery terminals.

written by somebody with nothing better to do