For those of you who are car newbies, you might be wondering what the battery is for. Well, in the old, old, old days, car batteries were unheard of. Yes, that was the time when you had to break your arm off just to crank start the engine. It’s a good thing that technology has been kind enough to improve all our motoring lives.
A car battery (of a typical car, let’s not talk about hybrids) is a rechargeable battery is an integral part of your car’s ignition system and powers all the other electrical devices in the car. With so much electronics placed inside cars these days, having a crappy battery spells disaster. Imagine you’re running late for something, you try to start your car and all you hear is one loud tick. Failed battery. So to be sure that never happens, you have to make sure that your battery’s in tip-top shape.
Here’s a quick guide to battery care and maintenance.
Checking the battery first begins with an ocular inspection. Check the cell casing and cover for any cracks. Any sign of moisture and a strong sour smell from the battery indicates that it’s leaking. Be careful when handling leaking car batteries. There are very strong chemicals inside the batteries.
Nowadays, batteries are built to be maintenance free or low-maintenance (pictured, right). They are sealed so you might not have to worry about the electrolyte levels and skip the next few lines. If happen to have one that has removable caps (pictured, left), you might want to check the electrolyte levels. To do this, unscrew the caps.
If the fluid doesn’t reach the top of the plates inside the battery, you have to top it up with some distilled water. You can get distilled water specifically for car batteries of the counter in garages and gas stations. Never use tap water for this. It contains too many minerals that would mess up the battery’s chemistry. Be sure to replace the caps and secure them tightly.
Check the battery terminals for any sign of corrosion and deposits. Sometimes, it just takes one corroded terminal to prevent your car from starting. Corrosion would often look like whitish powder around the terminals. Caked acid would often be some colorful cruds.
To clean terminals, remove the clamps and cables. Be sure to start with the negative pole (-) then the positive (+). A word of warning though, make sure that you have your keys with you all the time. Some car security systems would lock down at first sign of electricity being cut. Also, check your car’s electronics’ (audio and satnav) manuals to check if removing the battery connection will have complications.
Using some baking soda, some water, and an old toothbrush, brush of any cruds. If the darned cruds are stubborn, you can use one of those specialized terminal cleaners.
Dry everything up, making sure the terminals are squeeky clean. You might have to check the connectors too for any cruds. Coating the terminals with some petroleum jelly helps prevent corrosion.
Replace the battery clamps, making sure you place the positive (+) first then the negative (-) last.
Check the battery cables if they are damaged, frayed, or have exposed conductors. If they do, replace them or have your mechanic do it for you as soon as possible. If budget doesn’t permit it yet, patch it up with some strong electrical tape.
Car batteries often need changing at the maximum of 3.5 years or depending on the warranty claim on your battery. If there are times when you accidentally leave you headlights on while parked (modern cars have warning buzzers though) and you run out of juice, most auto electrical technicians would just recommend a good charging. Let the experts do it for you.
Nov 01
steven Said,
March 10, 2009 @ 3:23 pm
Hi
Do you know how to repair a corroded car battery pole?
Mr. Peabody Said,
May 27, 2009 @ 9:04 pm
first and foremost — this article should have started off with a warning that when you are inspecting anything under your hood, you should make sure the engine is OFF, for safety reasons — keep the keys in your pocket to ensure and make sure there is no risk of anybody hitting the horn button. LOL
if the battery terminal (post) is corroded, the yellow plastic terminal cleaner shown in this article should also have a brush inside the cover for cleaning the post, simply push the cover down over the post and twist it around in both directions several times to really clean up the post, you may have to blow off the powdery corrosion (don’t breath it in!) and repeat — it should eventually appear bright and shiny afterwards. (the smaller brush shown is for cleaning the *inside* of the battery cable connectors, as they are just as likely to acquire corrosion as the battery terminals and should be checked and cleaned if necessary when removed) — odd that this article doesn’t mention this.
if you have no brush suitable for cleaning the battery terminals and cable connectors, a small piece of some very light sandpaper (400-800g) can be used. in an emergency a disposable nail file will also work
you should always keep the top of the battery clean (a small scrub brush and some baking soda in warm water is fine) as a buildup of crud and corrosion can actually form a circuit and actually drain the battery when the engine isn’t running.
at a bare minimum, you should keep an adjustable wrench (and preferably a cheapish 3/8″ handle with sockets, not just pliers) in your car in case you need to change the battery or tighten a hose clamp, etc. — and remember, you may not be capable of repairing a problem with your car, but having a basic tool set will make it easier for a helpful fellow motorist if you end up stuck in traffic, etc.
for those in northern climes, the first cold days after summer often prove to be too much for an aging battery, so if your battery is a few years old, be prepared for it to fail after the first frost..!
also — and this is especially true for those with older cars — always inspect the battery cables where they meet the connector. if the large copper wires that make up the cable are exposed, they can also degrade and should be replaced. if you have recently installed a new battery in an older car, and that battery has failed (and the alternator is known to be operating properly) ALWAYS have new battery cables installed — especially the negative. faulty battery cables are often overlooked (sometimes on purpose) by small-shop mechanics and this can cost you a lot of money, when all you really needed was a new negative battery cable and a battery charge!
using vaseline on the connectors is often mentioned, but usually just creates a mess, i wouldn’t recommend using it — instead, ask your local auto supply store for anti-corrosion rings for the battery terminals.
written by somebody with nothing better to do
Steve Fairman Said,
December 29, 2009 @ 12:40 pm
How do you remove the brackets so that the battery can be removed?
Steve Fairman Said,
December 29, 2009 @ 12:44 pm
How do you release the brackets so that the battery can be removed from a Honda FRV?
sorry about the previous message…I left out thr car and model!
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