The first caveat of doing car repairs on your own is basically, can you really do repairs on your car? If you aren’t too sure, then you just might have to consider doing the pre-driving checks and maintenance yourself but leave all the repair work to the pros. However, I’ve learned long ago that some routine repairs can be easily done in one’s own garage without having to shell out money for service and that there are certain repairs that you can safely do without risking f*cking up your car. But before you do work on your car, observe these few safety rules.

Make sure that you have plenty of working and breathing space in you garage. You should be able to maneuver freely without having to worry about banging your elbows. Some of the car fluids can release fumes so be sure that you also get enough ventilation.

Wear protective clothing. No need for super sanitary gear, though some overalls would. Grease and dirt usually gets everywhere so it’s usually a shame to get some on your new jeans. Take off all jewelry, watches, and accessories. If you have long hair, tie it up or keep it in a bun. You don’t want your lovely locks get tangled somewhere in there.

Also, make sure that you work on a level surface. Ever had those nuts and bolts roll to some nook and cranny you won’t be able to reach? Now how about having your car roll somewhere? Be sure that wheels are blocked before jacking the car up.

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Every seen the set of tools that come with cars? Forget about them. They might contain the barest necessities but you shouldn’t be content with them. Unless of course, you’re McGyver and can survive a 10 years in a deserted island with a toothpick. So better invest in some tools and one set of tools that any car owner should have is a good set of socket wrenches.

Socket wrenches are heaven sent. Depending on your locality, you might have to choose between SAE and metric-measured socket wrenches. A decent enough set can even be had for $50 or even less.

Here are some of the sizes that your wrench set should have - 1/2, 9/16, 3/4 inch ones get the most use. For metric measurements a set that includes 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 mm heads are essential.

Some sets would come with two ratchets with different-size drives (that square knob where you attach the socket heads). This might prove to be useful in many instances but a set with adapters would do. Some ratchets even come with flex heads to allow you to work at different angles. And get a set with ratchets that have no-slip grips and fit comfortably in your hands. For ratchets, there’s such a thing as teeth count - those that go click when you turn the socket wrench. Higher teeth count is almost always better.

Extension adapters are also useful parts of the set. There are nooks and crannies where you might need the extra reach. A spark plug remover adapter for example is one tool you might find very useful if included in the set.

Quality comes with a price though. Those $50 sets can probably do the routine jobs. But just in case you’d need to have tools for more demanding work - stuck up nuts and bolts can be really stubborn requiring brute force - then better invest in better tools. Here’s a clue for a good brand - the ones featured in Iron Man.

Just to understand more about your car, especially if you are a newbie:

The coolant, or anti-freeze, is the substance that not only prevents freezing but it also acts as a lubricant for your car’s water pump. The coolant is generally a mix of water and ethylene glycol. It must be changed on a regular basis, especially its PH level as it is important to keep your coolant from eating metal.

The water pump is the shaft in your car with a pully on one end and a pump rotor on the other it. What it does is that it moves the coolant from the radiator throughthe engine and then back to the radiator. The water pump is aided by the fan belt or the timing belt.

The thermostat is important in the cooling system as it controls the flow of the coolant through the engine. If the thermostat fails in an open position, your car’s engine may have bad gas mileage as it makes it run too cold. On the other hand, if the thermostat fails in a closed position, it will cause your engine to overheat as no coolant will be distributed to the engine.

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There is no avoiding car repair. One way or another you’ll ust have to go down that line. Now what pisses me off is when I am not only inconvenienced by a malfunctioning car, but when the guys with whom I entrusted to revive the darn thing rips me off too. So this are just some tips to avoid rip offs.

Be prepared. Learn how your vehicle works and try to identify common car problems. Know your own vehicle well especially its quirks. With a little car knowledge, you won’t be intimidated by smart asses when they use technical terms in assessing so-called problems.

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Okay, back to car maintenance basics with this posts with a simple illustrated guide to checking your engine oil level. I know a lot of drivers who just don’t like the idea of popping up the hood before starting the car and rolling off to somewhere. Believe me, I also know a lot of cases where cars conked out just because of this.

The engine has a lot of moving parts and to keep them running smoothly, lubrication is needed. Running the engine without oil is mechanical suicide. Here’s how to check you engine oil level.

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Brake warning lights are there on the dash because they serve a purpose. What it does is to alert the driver that something is wrong with the braking system. It it suddenly lights up, immediately check your owner’s manual as it can mean a lot of things.

It can simply mean that the hand or parking brake is on and that you just need to disengage it. It can also mean the DOT-3/brake fluid in the master cylinder is low. If you smell something burning and it comes on, then the reason is obvious. If you do have an ABS-equipped car, then this means that you have an ABS light on the dash. This usually comes on when the car is started then switches off later. If it lights up, blinks, or stays on, then the ABS computer has gone a bit awry. Unfortunately, the problem can be as simple as a foreign matter has messed up with one of the sensors, or as complex as replacing the entire ABS unit.

In any case, if the warning light goes on, the best course of action, still is to get it scanned and tested by a qualified mechanic. Your braking system is not one to just ignore. As I would put it, stopping is more important than getting from 0-60 in sub-8 seconds. Getting a portable ODB-II scanner that you can easily link to your car’s diagnostic port can also give you an immediate result as to what’s causing the problem. Just have a reference guide of the error codes for your car.

The most common electrical problem that a car-owner encounters is the battery wearing out. Depending on brand and design, a car battery can last between 3 and 7 years.

Another common electrical problem is having a bad alternator. This can be indicated by dimming of headlights when your car is idle. Better take your car to a garage. If the alternator cannot produce enough electricity, the car battery has to compensate for this, which will then wear it out. If your car immediately loses juice despite a brand new battery, try to have your alternator checked. It might not be charging your battery during use. Don’t be surprised if all you hear is a “tick” when you try to start your car.

If the interior lights and the dashboard lights are not working, then the problem might be the fuses. There is a fuse panel in the glove box under the dash or one beside the air intake (common located) in the engine. Discoloration of the fuse means that has blown. Replace and test the system not working. Just be sure that you are using fuses with the same rating. Or if not, just check the bulbs. Bulbs wear out quite commonly. However, if your bulbs burn out quickly, have your system checked for any short circuits.

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Rust is the top and most common problem with an automobile’s body since it can work from the inside of your car and show up when it’s already too late. New cars mostly have excellent rust proofing applied to them during manufacturing. Unfortunately older units have none of this. So be sure to wipe water off especially after cleaning your car or after a rainy day. Road salt too can adversely hasten corrosion. Chips and dings from daily driving are also prime spots for moisture to penetrate the finish and into the metal. So be wary of down to the metal scratches.

The elements can also eat away at your car’s pristine finish. The sun’s UV rays can also damage the paint job of your car so better to park your vehicle somewhere shaded as much as possible. Don’t forget to give your car a good wax job. Think of it as sunscreen for your precious four wheels.

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Rust is the number one enemy of a car when it comes to its body. It will eat your car away and if you’re thinking of reselling your car rust diminishes the value a great deal. Still, a few points on car care would help you prevent body rust from developing. Here are a few tips on how to keep the body of your car in tip-top shape.

Keep thy car clean. You car can only tolerate so much dirt and dust, debris, salt, and moisture! Wash your car and don’t forget to “scrub” the underside too, most especially during and after the winter season. Build up of salt from the roads (which are used to melt the ice on the roads), will erode the protective layer of your car paint which will then make it prone to rust.

After washing your car, a little waxing on-and-off will also protect the paint from elements, my little grasshopper. But if you have the time and money, why not get extra protection by rust-proofing your car? Undercoating is a must too! If your car is still new, then this will be a very easy job. However, older cars with some rust on them will need more work.

Allow water to exit the ledges around the trunk and hood of your car by making sure that all the drain holes around them are clear. Don’t forget to check the weather stripping for rips and tears to prevent water from sneaking in.

Car overheating? Then one (or more) of these could be the source of your problem:

Your car’s water pump may not be doing its work well. How do you know if this happens? If you are observant, you’d notice that there is a strong coolant odor while driving and there would also be small spots of coolant under the car. If the damage is worse, you’ d hear a tinny screeching noise and a very telling leak from the front of the pump or under the car.

The hose or the fan belt is broken. Hoses and fan belts do wear out and break and once they do, coolant will not be circulated through the engine which will then lead to overheating.

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